Osterreichischer Rundfunk is not an R&B artist, but Austria's equivalent of Radio 4. Last week one of their presenters interviewed me, concerned about the conversion of London's pubs into gastropubs. It seems that from Salzburg to Graz, Austrians are deeply concerned that London's boozers are 'disappearing' as they are gentrified. I endeavoured to put their listeners right: serving decent food does not mean the demise of a pub, it can mean a whole new lease of life.

Scolt Head is a case in point. It's in a corner of Hackney where having pool tables and a giant TV screen is still a pre-requisite for survival; but the new owner, Rosie Haines, has smartened it up considerably, tearing out the old carpets and limiting smoking to the small urban garden. Decent beer is now served: Timothy Taylor Landlord, Deuchars IPA, and Fullers London Pride (all £2.70), among others. The wine list is brief but thoughtfully put together, listing good producers rather than the more obvious choices.

Trish Hilferty used to be the chef of the acclaimed Fox gastropub, which is now under new ownership. Hilferty is instead doing a spot of cooking at Scolt Head (as well as Great Queen Street, left) as a consultant. The brief menu now changes daily, and shouldn't scare the regulars away: chicken, leek and potato pie sits next to the gnocchi and chocolate souffle cake.

With simple dishes it's difficult to go wrong, and the kitchen seems to be working within its ability. It's difficult to get overexcited about dishes such as rump steak (cooked rare as requested) or smoked haddock fish cakes, but they were all competently prepared using good ingredients. This is straightforward, unaffected cooking with most main courses costing under a tenner.

The pub still feels like a utilitarian locals' pub, and has not been overgentrified. There is, for example, no resemblance to the real Scolt Head Island, which is a National Nature Reserve on the north Norfolk coast, one of the most beautiful saltmarshes in England. I don't expect people from Fulham will be driving here to eat (as they do to Norfolk's Burnham Market), from which Hackney locals can take further delight.

Scolt Head, 107a Culford Rd, N1 4HT (020 7254 3965) Dalston Kingsland rail/30, 38, 56, 76, 149, 242, 243 bus. Open Mon-Sat 12noon-12midnight, Sun 12noon-11.30pm. Meal for two with drinks and service: around £40.